The dress, like every other costume seen in Wicked, went through a variety of phases before it became what it is today. This article is devoted to the research of what Glinda wore during the San Francisco previews and for a short time on Broadway. Notable actresses that have worn this version of the dress are Kristin Chenoweth (obviously), Laura Bell Bundy, Jennifer Laura Thompson, and Megan Hilty.
The dress had far less poof to it than its current incarnation. The petals are more symmetrical and laid almost flat against the skirt, and even though there are zillions of layers to the underskirt, it's a little more A-line. The neckline is flat off the shoulder, rather than rounded or sweetheart, and the sequins are spread out over the bodice and sleeves, instead of the detailed applique on the front and centre panels. There is also a ruffle over the neck. The sleeves are more bell shaped than circle, as well.
When I was at BtEC, I got to see a later version of the KChen gown, and there was a very visible zipper there. Since even later versions of the Bubble Gown (such as Stuttgart) seem to have switched to eyehooks, it seems logical that it started out as a zipper and then became hooks.
You can also see the harness built into the skirt of the dress. This keeps the actress attached to the Bubble.
The Bodice:
These are screencaps from a Kristin Chenoweth fitting. It gives you an idea where the seams are. The video can be watched here. There are 7 panels: one down the front (I don't see a centre front seam, so I'm assuming it's all one piece), two along the bust (allowing for a better fit), two at the sides, and two at the back of the dress. You can see that it's boned (Susan Hilferty says "to hold [Glinda] in and hold it's shape) in four places in front, but I'm assuming it's also boned in the back as well (otherwise it would be pulling awkwardly at the zipper). You can see the seams on the dress itself (not the mockup) in the photos below.
The sequins run along the top of the dress and come down in a v-shape in the same way seen on the UK and US versions. While there aren't very many high res photos of them, they are round sequins in varying shades of blue, from sky blue to periwinkle (more purple), and some white or sheer ones. The neckline is rounded and, on many versions, has a ruffle running all the way around the neck. In an interview, Susan Hilferty stated there are 30 different kinds of sequins, however, this may not be in reference to this particular dress.
The waistline of the bodice is neither a straight v-shaped (like the UK version) nor rounded (like US version). It kind of curves into a point, and reminds me quite a bit of an Elizabethan waist as seen in the Simplicity pattern 8881. (This does vary from dress to dress, of course)
Another important thing to note is that the bodice on this dress hits right at the waist. Other incarnations have something of a dropped waist, but this hits straight above the hip.
The Sleeves:
On the preview dress, I'm pretty sure the sleeves are stuffed to keep their shape. While in other forms, the sleeves are crinkled and hold their shape due to being ruched (or gathered; what's the technical term here?), the way the sleeves are pushed out and full makes me think there's some sort of batting in there. (Think the Prince from Enchanted's gravity-defying sleeves) I think the sleeves on any kind of short sleeved peasant top pattern would be about right.
The Skirt:
This is the biggest difference between this dress and later versions: the skirt doesn't have petals, it has tiers. Each layer is scalloped on the edges and has sequins galore, but we don't have the separate petal look seen later on.
I see four layers, with the bottom being the largest and the top the smallest. The ones at the waist look about 6" across, and the ones at the bottom maybe 18" (I failed math, so feel free to chime in here). The edges are heavily beaded and sequined.
You can see one of the petticoats in this pic of LBB & Eden:
I see four layers, with the bottom being the largest and the top the smallest. The ones at the waist look about 6" across, and the ones at the bottom maybe 18" (I failed math, so feel free to chime in here). The edges are heavily beaded and sequined.
You can see one of the petticoats in this pic of LBB & Eden:
Collar:
The ruffs seen on this dress are the same fabric as the bodice. The Kristin Chenoweth ruff seen on display is wide and short, and from the back looks like it indents behind her head.
Shoes:
One really interesting thing Julia told me is that in the beginning ("No One Mourns The Wicked"), Glinda wears her Shiz skirt and shoes under the Bubble Gown, so all she has to do during the 25 second quick change is put on her jacket (she also wears the bodice of the dress under the jacket!) and wig. So her shoes are the Shiz ones, pictured here:
And, Ladies and Gentlemen, may I present: PHOTOGRAPHIC EVIDENCE!!
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If you click and enlarge the picture, you can just see the navy blue tip of her shiz shoes.
In the second act, it looked like her shoes were the same ones she wore during One Short Day.
Jewellery:
She also wears a sparkly necklace. While later incarnations have her wearing the teardrop necklace seen in US productions, it seems to have started with a little dangly choker.
Pattern Suggestions
Sleeves & Bodice: Simplicity 8881. I don't recommend using this pattern if you don't already have it (you can probably just as easily draft it from another bodice pattern with the amount you'll have to tweak it) or if you're a beginner to modifying patterns. But if you're confident in your messing-with abilities, knock yourself out.
Skirt: This dress mimics the tiers look. (McCall 5046)
Collar: this might work, especially if you changed the "choker" to the jewellery we see in this scene. (Butterick 4315)
1 comment:
You have a beautiful site here. I'm so glad someone is studying these costumes as they are so amazing. You're doing a great job too. I'd love to play Glinda one day! I may have to link you from my blog :) xx
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